Belgian designer Kris van Assche showed his first menswear collection at Christian Dior at Paris men’s fashion week. Van Assche’s presentation, held in an 18th-century style private mansion, marked a change from the rock & roll shows of his predecessor Hedi Slimane, who’s celebrity following included muses Pete Doherty and Jamie Dornan. Opting for a more demure presentation, models posed motionless under crystal chandeliers, wearing white shirts with small rounded collars and slim day suits in lightweight wool with subtle pleating or seam details.
The absence of Slimane hasn’t gone unnoticed, and his legions of fans are eagerly awaiting his next venuture, with a womenswear line being a likely next move. For those in the fashion world, Slimane’s skinny suits were an acquired taste that began a trend not seen in menswear since Armani. Karl Lagerfeld famously lost 93 pounds just to fit into his tailoring.
“He is already missed,” said Olivier Lalanne, editor-in-chief of Paris-based magazine Vogue Hommes International. “I think in these last few years, he is really the one who most revolutionised the male silhouette.” Van Assche was previously Slimane’s assistant, and his familiarity with the house seemed a natural progression to be offered the design post.