The first lesson in retail is that what you see on the runway is not the
same as what the buyer sees in the showroom, which may also differ from
what is delivered to retailers six months later.
Catwalk collections are a series of looks that best portray the image of
the brand for the season. A commercial collection is then created as an
extension with more wearable and often affordable items. Many looks seen on
the catwalk disappear from the fashion periphery as soon as the model makes
her exit, never seeing the light of day on a clothing rail.
The clothes on the catwalk should be alluring, not per se
commercial
The clothes on the catwalk have a job to entice, create allure, glamour and
make a statement. Whether or not they will be successful at retail is
rather beside the point, there will be plenty of wearable pieces that can
be bought into elsewhere.
Let’s take the AW15 collection by Saint Laurent as an example. Shorter than
short dresses, deeper than deep v-necks, breasts popping out on models (as
seen on the asymmetrical dress worn in look 54). The Saint Laurent customer
is not per se a rock-goddess-slash-model with the body of a 16 year-old.
She is much more likely be a lover of fashion, professional and working,
and maybe with a family and children. But she will be wearing Saint Laurent
next season, as the tricky items will be fixed in production and made
wearable and commercially viable.
Dresses will be made 3 inches longer, the equivalence spelling the
difference between sexy and prostitution. The v-necks will taken in and
cover the breasts enough to be sultry without being lewd. And those
unaffordable items in python or crocodile will also have calf leather
options that won’t require re-mortgaging the house in order to afford them.
And that is how the commercial collection is put together, building on the
pieces that are going to perform at retail.
For many designers finding the balance between image and commerciality is
the most challenging of the design process. Having to please buyers,
investors, customers, sales agents and adhere to the general zeitgeist, it
means a lot of voices to have to listen to and take into consideration.
It’s a constant pressure, as ultimately fashion is a business and every
brand must sell.
But the catwalk collection should be an extension of the brand’s vision,
allowing the designer and image of company to be seen without compromise.
Sometimes we get a glimpse of genius, like at Alexander McQueen, Celine,
Rick Owens, Comme des Garcons or Prada. But even here, there will be plenty
that is fixed in time for production. No retailer wants to see rails full
of unwearable clothes at the end of the season.
Images: Saint Laurent AW15
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