When Michael Kors dropped fur from his collections he explained his
decision was based on the ability to create a luxe aesthetic using
non-animal fur, Donatella Versace said killing animals no longer felt
right, Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri cited the lack of need for it due to the
elevated quality of the alternatives. Last month, Prada made similar
declarations. Advancements in technology and the shift in consumer demand
are the main reasons for fur’s falling popularity, but says Peta’s Dan
Mathews, addressing the annual CFDA Fashion Education Summit, “This is a
global fashion revolution, and it mustn’t stop at fur, it only starts
there.”
Chanel declared it would not only cease using fur, but exotic skins.
Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren are among 300 brands that stopped using
angora, after becoming aware of the mistreatment of rabbits; Uniqlo and
Zara, are among hundreds that banned mohair, while H&M and ASOS dropped
cashmere. Peta acknowledges the changing times and its ever-evolving role.
“It’s less about protest now and more about education,” Mathews told the
audience, adding with a chuckle, “It’s a thrill to be presenting here
because I don’t have to worry about going to jail today.”
According to Mathews most designers never set foot on the farms from
which they source their animal products which is why Peta still goes to
these often remote places to film the conditions. From Australia to
Scotland, alligator farms in Zimbabwe to mohair facilities in South Africa,
while geographically different all farms have in common one thing––cutting
corners to save cost––so he remains pragmatic about the work still to do.
“They are businesses, after all, not sanctuaries.” Mathews is convinced
that after talking to fashion houses and showing designers the footage they
have been left in such a state of shock that it has contributed to the
almost industry-wide chorus of rejection. Peta also enlists public figures
such as Pink and Tim Gunn to reach consumers, delivers samples of the
latest vegan textiles to companies, and in June sponsored the first vegan
menswear show opening Mens Fashion Week with rising designer Stephen F’s
suits made of WonderFelt, a material created from recycled plastic
bottles.
Developments in eco-friendly leather alternatives
Mock croc, fake snake, faux mohair, the marketing angle for fake is
thriving but the developments are real. Well-known among them are mushroom
leather or Piñatex from pineapple, also bamboo or soy-derived silk, joined
by newer textiles made from grape and apple, wool and cashmere mimicking
fabrics made from hemp and coconut fibers, and advancements using cork
which involves shaving off the outer layer of trees leaving no harmful side
effects as cork replenishes itself.
“Designers are all ears now,” says Mathews, “motivated by their younger
hyper-aware customer who wants to be part of the solution. Brands want to
be the first to use the latest non-animal fabric, what Tim Gunn calls
‘fabrics that don’t bleed.’” He describes having “ongoing talks” with
companies like Armani and Moschino, but says houses often adapt little by
little, giving an example of a major established Parisian brand which is
completely quiet about their steps, although they have already replaced
four of their go-to fabrics with eco-friendly alternatives.
Fake fur no better than real fur?
Mathews shuts down the debate that fake is as harmful to the environment
as real by saying, “Steeping skins in chromium and formaldehyde during the
tanning process, and improper disposal of toxic waste, makes all animal
product more dangerous. Synthetic products have less of an impact. Stella
McCartney resisted faux fur for years because she couldn’t find one that
was green enough but two years ago succeeded. The government isn’t stepping
up in this area so it’s going to be up to industry.” When asked if the new
developments in fish skin are a viable alternative, he replies,”You’ll have
to ask the fish. Peta is for the protection of all creatures whether they
exist on land or in sea.”
When challenged if the organization has considered investing in
start-ups creating leather and fur alternatives Mathews reminds those
gathered that Peta is a charity. “But we look at ways to draw attention to
the materials, for example through the fashion show, and we can direct
ethical investors towards companies, and are happy to be a resource for
students and companies to get samples of the new materials.”
He identifies fashion professors as being in a unique position as they
cultivate the designers of tomorrow and reiterates Peta’s enthusiasm in
being a resource for schools, sharing materials, spreading knowledge and
awareness, inspiring ongoing change.
Fashion editor Jackie Mallon is also an educator and author of Silk for
the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.
Photos Peta.org
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